Josephine Benitz - Schreiber Page last modified:

Grand Tour of Europe
April 10th to October 25th — 1900

Missing image.

Bertha, Josephine,
& John

Berlin, 17 May, 1900
(Source: Silvia Ucko)

Missing image.

(Source: Silvia Ucko)

 

In 1900, John and Josephine Schreiber toured Europe with their eldest daughter, Bertha.  Josephine’s observations and record of their travels by ship, train, and carriage provide a fascinating glimpse of the places, manner of dress, and attitudes of that time.

As interesting as her diary, is Josephine’s “Journal of Expenses”, included at the foot of this page.

Transcription notes: We received diary from the estate of Silvia Ucko, Josephine’s granddaughter.  We transcribed it verbatim without intentional changes to her spelling and grammar.  When time allows we will provide the scanned pages.  (Transcribed by: René A. Benitz)

Missing image.

Their calling card?
(It is for their engagement, found in the diary.)

Trip segments:

Atlantic (April 10 - May 4)
At sea: Bs.As. to Hamburg, aboard "Cap Frio"
Germany (May 4 - June 1)
Hamburg, Altona, Ulenhurst, Berlin, Hallensee, Pottsdamm, Dresden, Bastei
Austria (June 1 - 7)
Teschen, Vienna (Wien), Graz
Italy (June 7 - July 9)
Trieste, Venice, Bologna, Florence, Rome, Naples, Genoa, Milan, L.Como, Lugano
Switzerland (July 10 - 19)
Lucerne, Zurich, Biel, Bern, Lausanne, Basel
Germany (July 20 - Aug. 12)
Neuhausen, Schaffhousen, Munich (München), Ulm, Stuttgart, Karlsruhe, Heidleberg, Frankfurt, Mainz, Weisbaden, Rüdesheim, Coblenz, Cologne (Cöln)
France (Aug. 13 - Sep. 3)
Paris, Versailles, Dieppe
England (Sep. 4 - 8)
London (& Crystal Palace), Dover
Belgium (Sep. 8 - 11)
Ostend, Brussels, Antwerp
Germany (Sep. 11 - 30)
Cologne, Cassel, Eisenach, Berlin, Hanover, Hamburg
Atlantic (Sep. 30 - Oct. 25)
At sea: Hamburg to Bs.As.

[Diary begins here]

April  1900

Missing image.

10th

Left Buenos Aires on bord the Cap Frio with about 65 first class passengers.  Wrote to Matilde at 8 P.M. to post in Monte V.    steamer stopped near Montevideo at 3 A.M. on the 11th to load 2 cows, 1 calf, fish & vegetables, also wheat, left at 11 A.M. but stopped to set off two men at Isla Flores, during which time a French steamer overtook us, but during the night we passed it again & soon left it far behind, towards evening it got very windy & the sea was pretty rough, but we are all keeping well so far; There are a great many natives on board. — Papa wrote to Emma on the 11th to post in Montevideo.

14th,

This evening the ladies tried to get up a dance, but did not succeed, the salita is too small, Bertha played a few pieces.

15,  Easter Sunday.

to-day two steamers & a brig were in sight, but soon disapeared.  In the evening Bertha caught cold, & was hoarse.

16,

Bertha passed a bad night & woke up with a high fever this morning, gave her a hot foot bath, towards evening she felt better.  a steamer passed us after dark, and our steamer saluted with bengal lights, which the other steamer answered, they say she is of the Pacific line.

Missing image.

“Cap Frio” Poster
Hamburg South America Line
(5,732 tons, built: 1900,
wrecked: 1908 Bahia)
(Source: 1905 Brazilian poster sale)

17.

Bertha slept well, & is quite well again.  in the evening we passed a large bark in full sail.

18th

after dark a steamer of this same line passed us on its way South, salutations with bengal lights were exchanged.

19,

to-night we pass the line (equator) there will be no babtizing; in the evening the young people danced a little.

Frau Link played a lanceros, and Sr Cleve played some walzes, Bertha also played a Boston, not much animacion, too many natives on bord.

20,

Papa has a headache this morning, he has been quite well up to now, & always had a very good apetite.

21,

Last night Dr. Abella invited the young people to dine with him at his end of the big table; the gentlemen (7) appeared in smoking & the 3 young ladies, Señorita Rosita Berenechea, Evangelina Obligado & Bertha wore evening dresses, Bertha wore her white silk, the Obligada a very pretty white low dress & Rosita her pink;  the table was decorated for the occasion with two very pretty baskets of ferns, belonging to the Obligado. —

After dinner every body went to the ladies salita & the young widdow Señora Clotilde Bullrich de Peña, had her fonograph taken up, & made it play for an hour or more, then after that she went around with a plate to collect for the poor ship-wrecked, all the gentlemen put in gold pieces, so she got together about 300 francs, or Marcs, I dont remember which.

22.—  Sunday,

Last night Bertha & I went to the Salita, Bertha wanted to play, because it was so dull doing nothing, but soon the salita was quite filled, as every body came up when they heared that some one was playing; Bertha played some pieces as also did Sr Cleve, no one else will play, although I am sure many know how, some played games at the little round tables, others told stories, & champane was passed around, I think old Bertram ordered it.

It is still very warm, we have had very warm weather exepting the two first days after leaving Buenos Aires, & I often wish I had brought a thin dress along, my grey that I wear every day is getting dirty & is so sweated up.—

We are not going so fast now as we did last week, making only about 300 a day, towards 312 what we made at first.

23.

In the evening we passed the Cape Verd Islands, it was so dark that we could hardly see the outlines of the two Island, one on each side of us, & in the distance we could see the lights of San Vicente from the right sight of the steamer.—

25th

Wrote to the boys & to Clarita.

26th

Early in the morning we could see the peak of San Tereriffe in the distance, the peak covered with snow, about 12 O’clock we got along side of the Island, & passed along it until at 3 P.M. we stopped in front of Santa Cruz, & Papa & most of the passengers went on shore.

Papa brought flowers & fruit & returned at 9 O’clock.

During this time the steamer loaded coal & left again at about 12 O’clock at night.—

Teneriffa looks very pretty (at a distance) with its jagged mountains, covered with white houses, & also whole villages could be seen on the side hills.  We also sent a lot of pretty postal cards home.

I was sea-sick last night.  after playing domino with Mrs Croft, Dr Abella & Bertha.

28th

Was seasick last night.  It has got to be quite cold now.

29th

it was quite stormy last night & this morning cold & windy.

stormy all day.

30,

came in sight of Cape Finisterre about noon, at 3 it the land was out of sight again.

May 1st

passed along the coast of Brest, & in the evening saw a lot of light houses. during the last few days we have passed many steamers & ships. we passed 2 steamers that left Bs Aires before us;  the Pernambuco that left 8 or 10 days before us.

May 2nd

At 8 A.M. stopped oposite Cherbourg, & a small steamer came along side ours to take off the passengers for Cherbourg.—

Dr Abella received a telegram saying that his mother died (in Bs Aires) he takes it very hard, as he loved her so, & left her well;  poor fellow he is to be pitied, (helpless as he is) can’t walk alone, hopes to be cured in Berlin; Bertha passed all her afternoons beside him, to entertain him.—Everybody feels sorry for him, he is such a nice man.

2nd

At 8 P.M. we passed between Dover and Callais, & could see the gas lights of Dover, also the light houses of both places;

the water of the Channel has looked smooth like oil all day.  Several photos have been taken

3rd

I packed our trunks in the forenoon. it is a little foggy; it is so quiet & triste now that all the lively passengers have left us.  Rosita Berenechea was rather loud & kept the whole ship lively, making love to old Bertram & teazing Paulito Frankenheim.  Sra. Mercedes Berenechea is very pretty, but very affected, squinting her eyes shut all the time. Sra Clairian is very nice, she is spanish & her husband french. their daughter is very pretty.  Mrs Croft is an invalid, has been ill for 7 months, & is going to Berlin to be operated on her liver, Sra. Bullrich de Peña is a pretty little widdow, one evening she fainted.  Frau Frankenheim is very pretty but too stout.  Frau Link is nice but likes the natives best. 

The Funks are proud people, I do not like them this is his 30 trip to Europe & her 15th.—

Old Obligado is a queer old fellow, goes about looking on the floor, as if he had lost some thing; perhaps his wife, who has run away from him, his daughter Evangelina is ugly but dresses well, mostly in white & he spoils her so, she is often sea-sick.  Sr Archél flirted with her.  Frau Hasberg is very talkative & has a very large mouth. her little girl 2½ years old is the youngest child on board, & is liked by everybody.  The german minister looks sick, & most always leaves the table before the others. Sr Cleve & Sr Schliepen have the room oposit us. & Esteban Hasostegui is papa’s room mate.

Sr Varela is very lively, & always full of fun.  Von Eicken is a nice old man. — Sra. Martines de Hoz & Sra. Gonzales Morena are old native ladies.

So now good bye to them all, we expect to be in Hamburg tomorrow.

4th

The steamer stopped last night at 10, near Cuxhaven & this morning went on oposite Cuxhaven where it stopped again early to let the docter on board, to inspect the ship & the passengers; & he told us that we could only take a small hand baggage with us containing the most neccessary underclothes, as the other things all had to be disinfected first & we could have them in 2 or 3 days.  of course everybody is disgusted.  In the afternoon we passed Blankanese which is very pretty, then Altona, with its pretty villas & gardens; arriving in Hamburg (on the oposite side) at half passed six, then we got into a small steamer & were taken accross; we drove to the costum house, opened our valise, then drove on to the hotel Hamburger Hof room 229.—

Frau Jacob, Marie & husband & also Herr Jacob came on to the Cap Frio to receive welcome us, & brought us some roses.—

After our dinner (which we took after nine) we went out for a walk; so we got tobede to bed very late.

[sideways along left margin: Arrived in Hamburg on the 4th of May.]

5th.

Papa looked up his cousin Conrad Schaefer & brought him home with him; he invited us to dine with him & his family tomorrow.

Bertha & I drove all about town, & called on Dr Abella. Crofts were out.—

Dr Abella sent B. a lovely basquet of flowers.—

B & I bought sun shades, & papa a galera

6th

Missing image.

bought B. a hat, because her big white hat attracts too much attention, she is stared at by everybody. Called on Dr Abella & Sra. Croft, at the hotel Europa. Then drove to Schäfers in Altona, where we were invited to breakfast dinner (Mittag-Essen [written in German Fraktur]) at 3.P.M.

they live in a very nice house & are very nice people Elsie the eldest girl is pretty, the other younger one not at all. Wilhelm [written in German Fraktur] is a real Alemanito but full of fun, then there is a younger son. An officer Herr von Reichenbach & his wife & 2 little boys came towards evening, in the evening we had cold lunch in the antesala, & returned to the hotel near 12 O’clock. they have 2 married daughters.

7th

We weighed ourselves

  Papa weighs 71 ½ K
  I " 75 —
& Bertha " 55 —

I wrote to Tilly & to grand mama.

got our trunks.

8 7th

Emil came to see us, we went to Barnum & Baillys circus.

8th

In the afternoon we went to the Zoological garden, saw the wolf & ant bear from the Estancia; aquarium is nice.—

Animals left estancia “La California” on December 14, 1899.

In the evening we went to the Thalia theater, it is very small & plain but the acting is good   Splitter ŭ Balken was given. After the theater we called on Dr Abella.

9

Emil came for us & took us to the jewelry store, where papa bought B a ring.—

in the evening Shäfers had diner with us: I bought B. a violet silk blouse & my self a purple silk peticoat.

10/5

We went to Eimsbüttee to visit Marie Dohmké, they live very nicely, in the 3rd storry; their house is furnished nicely & they have, two fat children. Emil & his mother came there too, to a cold supper.

11/5

We went to the Hamburger Stadt teater & saw Hamlet played it was lovely.

12/5

We went to the same theater & heard the opera Tannhäuser. The scenes were most lovely, also some of the singing, the tenor was not good.

13/5

We went in a small steamer accross the Alster, then after walking about Uhlenhurst we took a carriage & drove about.—

Also called on H Grote but he was not at home.

14/5

9 A.M. Herr Grote came to see us, he looks better than he did in Bs. Aires.—

We left Hamburg at 12.48, by train, arriving at Berlin at half past four. After su are staying at the Hotel Continental, rooms 116. After supper we called on Dr Abella at the Hotel Central.

15/5

It is raining, but we drove to the Königliches Palais & were shone all through it, then went to the Café Bauer & had lunch. In the evening we went to the Königliches Schauspielhouse where “Unsere Iugend” was played the performance was good but the theater very plain.

16/5

We went out shopping in the forenoon, then Dr. Abella called on us (or rather on Bertha). Katie Boetcher also called on us. In the evening we went to the opera & heared (Götter Dämerung) of the Nibelungen. It was grand.

17/5

We went to have our photographs taken & then went to the Zenghouse, in the afternoon we went to the Thiergarden & to the Zoological garden.

18/5

In the forenoon we went to the old new museum to see the paintings & statues, they were lovely. In the afternoon B. & I went to visit Dr. Abella.

19/5

Bertha & I did some shopping, in the morning althought it was raining, at 9. A.M. it snowed a little. After breakfast we called on Sra. Croft, later after 3. Katie Boettcher came for us & took us to her house, where we had coffee then took the train to HallenSee with Herr Boettcher & Hanne. we walked about Hallensee for about an hour, looking at the pretty Villas, until we were tired out, then we took the train home.

20/5.

Went to the photographers to have mine taken over again, Bertha also had hers taken.

Then went to the aquarium.

In the afternoon papa & I drove to Lahn’s (Frau Sussman’s sister) on Frankfurter Allee 17. & paid them a visit.

21/5

In the forenoon we went to Rauch’s Museum had breakfast near there & then went shopping, bought a suit for B, & 1 for myself, also a black silk skirt for B. & ordered a black silk dress for myself. When we came home found Herr & Frau Croft here to visit us.

In the evening we went to the Opera & heard the Africanerin, it was very good, the Afrecanerin had a most lovely voice. When we came home found a letter here from Tilly & one from Emma to Papa.——

22/

Went to try on our dresses, bought a lace dress for B.— & a summer silk for myself.—

In the evening went to the Opera & heard Lohengrin. it was lovely.—

23/

Went to try on the dresses and after breakfast went to Pottsdamm with Herr & Frau Lahn.

[sideways along left margin: Palacio Babelsberg & San Souci.]

[sideways along right margin: Went to see Abella at night.]

24th

(Himmelfahrt).—  raining.—

Papa & I went to the Wax museums, there are some very good figures there.

Croft came to see us but only found Bertha at home.——

[sideways along right margin: In the evening we went to the Kaiser Café & had beer.—]

25 de Mayo

We went out shopping in the forenoon, then B & I went to see Abella, & towards evening went to try on our dresses.

26th

Went through the Old & New Museums, & to Kaiser Wilhelms Palace, towards evening Papa & I took the electric car to Charlottenburg;—

There were taken through the Palace & the Mauseleum.

27th

Was busy all day packing; Abella came to bid us good-bye & B & I drove with him in his carriage to the station. Nicolas (his servant) went in the closed carriage with papa & our luggage.—

Left Berlin with the 6.20 P.M. train.

27th

Arrived at Dresden at 9.30 P.M. & came to the “Europäischer Hof” have 2 bedrooms on the II (rooms 125 & 126.)

28th

Packed my big trunk over & had it sent to Hamburg.

In the afternoon we took a Droschke & were driven all about Dresden & through the lovely Park, the coachman was very good & showed us every thing that was worth seeing (for about three hours).—

Missing image.

(Source: Silvia Ucko)

29.—

Bertha & I did a little shopping. Wrote to Tilly, postal cards to the children & sent photographs

In the evening went to the Opera (Africana) not as good as in Berlin, the theater is very nice but was only half full,— lovely halls to walk about in.—

(Am not feeling at all well)

30—

Went to the Museum of Porcelan & Chinaware. it is raining.—

31.

At 10 A.M. drove to the Bastei, which is three hours drive from Dresden up in the mountains, (Sächsishe Sweiz) we had our breakfast there, then walked about, for about three hours, up & down the mountains, up the streem to the water-fall, Amsel-Fall. then drove home again to the hotel in Dresden, in the rain.—

June 1st
1/6

Left Dresden at ¼ 12, the train passed for hours along the river (Elbe) with high mountains on each side & through lovely forests,

At Tetchen our trunks passed through the Aduana, but were not examined.

Arrived at Wien at 10 P.M. tired out. Staying at Hotel Royal.

2nd

Walked through the streets to look at the shops, & drove to the post office. (wrote to Aunt Marjory) in the afternoon it rained. In the evening we went to the Opera (Aida).

3rd

In the forenoon we took a carriage & drove about, for two hours & went into a catholic church, & into a place where dwarfs acted. towards evening we drove out to “Venedig in Wien” it is a grand place of amusement, full of restuarants, at each of them there was singing & music, theater acting, etc; [sideways along left margin: Fingsten——] the big wheel in which we went up highe above the city, the rutsch bahn into the water etc etc. The place was beautifully lit up with coloured electric lights, put up in the trees; — then we drove home in the omnibus.

4/th,

We went shopping in the forenoon & bought B 2 silk blouses & a peticoat (pastell). In the evening went to the Opera, (Profet).

[sideways along left margin: B. said Papa Kuck den Mann!!!]

5/

we went to Oester Museum.  Went shopping. Bought spectacles.

6/

Walked about & drove to post office.

Wrote to Tilly

7/

Left Wien at 8.20 AM the route is lovely

going first between mountains, then up higher on the mountains, (winding upwards) & going through about 1 dz. tunnels; then for hours along a river passing lovely villages, along on the mountain sides or in the valleys by the river side.

Had breakfast in Graz, saw highe mountains in the distance the tops covered with snow;—

arrived at Triest near 10 P.M. — Went to the hotel Delorme.

8.—

In the forenoon it rained, Papa went to the museum. In the afternoon we drove about town for an hour. Towards evening Croft came to see us. 

After supper we took a walk.—

9/

At 8. A.M. we took a carriage & drove out to Alcaciatore, Villa Rivoltella, a lovely Park up in the hills, & a chappel  From there we drove back towards town over to the other side to Servola, & passed the Arsenal del Lloyd through Santa Andrea back to the hotel. 

the drive took us 3 hours.——

In the afternoon Crofts came & we took 2 carriages & drove to Mira Mar, Maximilians Palace, It is lovely,

10th

At 8 AM, left Triest by steamer & arrived at Venecia at 12 M.— After dinner took a walk through the plaza & along the paseo by the water, then took a gondol & rowed through the canal grande for 2 hours, listening to the singing and music of the Compania de Serenatos, [sideways along left margin: staying at Hotel Bauer — Grünwald.] there are 3 gondolas, lit up with colored paper lanterns, that go on the Canal grande & sing, then all the other gondolas lie still alongside, & money is collected.—

received letters from Tilly.—

11

Went through the Doggen Palast & up into the belltower, when we got up to the top it was 12.M. & the bell commenced to toll, it was deafening but the view was lovely.

Bim Bam Bum.

Papa asked if it was to be paid extra for.—

[sideways along left margin: took a walk through streets]

12/

Went accross in a little steamer to the Academia de Bellas Artes.

Wrote postal cards, B wrote to Emma, Abella.

In the evening went to the station in the little steamer & back in a Gondola,

[sideways along left margin: Papa asked a boy if he wanted a pepino.]

13th

Left Venise by the 2 ½ P.M. train.  arrived at Bologno at 7 P.M.—

took a walk in the evening. [sideways along left margin: Hotel Fossati]

14th

Drove about town, & left by the 3 P.M. train arriving at Florenz at 7 P.M. — after passing through more than 40 tunnels. [sideways along right margin: Drove to San Miguel en bosko. up on the hill, & through the Park.] Took a walk in the evening, are staying at the “Hotel Helvezia”.

15,

Took a walk in the morning & afternoon drove about town & went into some churches (San Croce)

16th,

In the forenoon Drove to the Park (Cacine) then to the Accademia des Bella Artes. In the afternoon, drove to Vialedei Colli & to Piazzale Migel Angelo A lovely drive & a lovely view all over Florenz & the hills.

17th

We went to the german church to the service at 10AM, after that we went to the Accademia de Ufici.

Towards evening we went to the jardin de Boboli, a very large & lovely garden.

18,

Papa and I went to the Pitti galeria, where we saw some beautiful paintings

[sideways along left margin: saw the original of Georges picture]

18/

Left Florenz at 6 ¼ PM arriving at Rome at 11.40. PM.—

(tired and sleepy) staying at Hotel Hassler.—

19/

In the forenoon took a carriage & drove to Piaza Popoli then all through the city, Went into the Pantéon, where Victor Emanuel is burried (& Rafael) then we went the building is very old & the walls 7 m thick. then we went into the church “Giovanni en Laterano”, it is beautiful with good paintings & very good statues especialy the 12 apostles. we also went into the church “S. Maria Maggiore”.

Rome has some beautiful plazas & every where you see lovely fountains.

We saw all the old ruins, espealy the old Amphiteatro or Coliseo.

In the afternoon we drove to the Vatican & into the San Peter’s church, it is grand. very large, & beautifully decorated, with paintings & statues, all the popes & cardinals are buried there.

Then we drove through a park S Pietro in Montorio where there is a very good statue of Garibaldi.

Then back through town again.

In the evening took a walk to the plaza Colonna where there was music.

20/

Drove to a picture Gallery, & to a museum.

In the afternoon we drove to San Peter’s church again to have another look at it.

21st

Left Rome at 8 A.M. arriving in Naples at 1 P.M. after a dusty trip, ¾ of an hour before arriving at Naples we could see the Vesuve to the left of us, smoking.  In the evening took a drive in a little carriage.

22nd

Are staying at the Hotel Britanique, have a lovely view over the city below us, the sea, & the vesuve, which puffs out smoke every once in a while.—

Went to the museum in the forenoon, I fell in getting into the electric car, because it started before I was on.—

took a drive in the evening in a little nice large carriage, to San Martino, up back of Neaple.

23. Sat.

In the forenoon went to Pompeie, by the 8 A.M. train, walked all about the ruins & the museum, returned after breakfast; — it was very hot.—

24th

Went to the Aquarium and through the principle streets, with Mrs Loeser, who is staying at the same hotel.

25.—

Went to Capri by the little steamer at 9. A.M. & went into the blue grotto in little boats, it was fun to shoot through the small hole entrance, into the large blue grotto, had breakfast at the Hotel, there & then drove all about Capri & returned to Neaple by the steamer towards evening,— stopping a few moments at Sorrento.

27.

Drove about town.

26.

stayed at home all day.

28

drove about out of town to Pozoali, Pasolip etc; it was dusty & hot.

29

Left Napoli at 10 P.M. by the steamer India.  it took 2 nights & 1 day, I was awfully sea-sick; the steamer came from India Malta.

Arrived at Genova on the 1st of July.

July 1st

Took the electric car & went out to Campo Santo & back.  In the afternoon took a carriage & drove all about the city & in the evening walked to the giardini Publico.  Genoa is a very pretty city, has good wide, clean streets & no beggars like in Napoli, & has many public gardens with trees and fountains.

2nd

Took another drive all about the place & went into the church “Anunciata” which is the nicest church in Genoa, & has many good paintings, although the outside looks very shabby.—

2nd

Left Genua at 6 PM. in the evening arriving at Milano at 10 PM., in the first hour we passed through 20 tunnels.

3rd, 4th, 5th

Drove all about Milano in the electrico twice & in carriages twice went to the Brera picture gallery, also up into the tower of the dom.  Milano is a beautiful city, wide clean streets & nice plazas & gardens.  the galeria Victor Emanuel is grand.  The Dom is beautiful on the outside, but plain inside. [sideways along left margin: Staying at Hotel Metropole.]

6th

Left Milano by the 6 PM O’clock train for Chiavenna, the train went by Lecco, passing along the Lago Lecco & Lago de Como for hours, it was lovely, to see the high mountains on each side of the lake.  arrived at Chiavenna at 10 P.M.—

Staying at Hotel Conradi.

7th

Hired a carriage & drove to Monte Splügen, the scenery was most lovely, along the river, between the mountains, up higher & higher, passing lovely waterfalls until we were between the snow covered mountains, it took us 5 hours to drive there & 3 back to Chiavenna.  We played snowball.

8th

We left Chiavenna by the 9.A.M. train for Varenna, reached there at 11 & took the steamer accross the L. Como to Mennagio, it took ½ hour.  there we had breakfast at the hotel Menagio, & at 2.45 took the train to Porleza, reached it in one hour, then took the little steamer to Lugana accross the L. Lugano, which we reached in 1 ½ hour.  stayed the night at Lugano, at the Hotel du Park.—

9th

Left Lugano by the 9.30 A.M. train for Luzern.—

Passed through the St Gottard tunnel at 12 it took 16 minutes, & we passed 65 other tunnels besides.—

Reached Luzern at quarter past two.

Staying at Hotel Wage.

(Balances)

The route was lovely, the high snow mountains on both sides of the track.

Went to the Hof-church to listen to the Organ, it was grand, especialy the last piece representing a thunderstorm.—

10th

It is raining but nevertheless we went out & bought a lot of carved-wood-articles.

In the afternoon went out again & bought shoes for B.—

11

Left Luzern by the 11 A.M. train arriving at Zürich at 1.P.M. staying at Hotel St Gotard.

took a walk to Post office.

12.

Went on the lake on the little steamer to the island & to Männedorf where we heard some comical songs in the restuarant

13th

Walked about & did some little shopping. Mr & Mrs Krögger came to see us in the evening.

14th

Left Zürich by the 9.22 train.  arriving at Biel at 1 P.M. (Bieler Hof.)

took a walk through the Chesnuts avenue, & took a ride in the tramway.

15.

Went up the mountain in the cable car, & afterwards went to the tauben slucht to see the lovely water fall.

We we returned in the tram about a dozen girls (young ladies) got in and sang french songs together, some of them had to stand because the tram was so full.  Left Biel by the 11 A.M. train and arrived at Bern at 12. — Sweizer Hoff

Took a drive all through the city & to the Bärengraben where we fed the bears with carrots.—

16th

Went to the Bärengraben in the tram.  Left at 11. A.M. arriving at Lausanne at 2 P.M. — at Hotel du Gran Pont

16

Drove about the town Lausanne for 1 ½ hour.—

After dinner we walked about the place.

17.

Left Lausanne at 10.30 by steamer for Genf where we arrived at 1 P.M. — at “Hotel Angleterre”.  It was beautiful on the lake.Rude

“Saw Mount Blanc”

17

Drove about the city, & in the evening went to the Kurhouse to the theater performance.  The trained cats & dogs were good.

The magic lantern was nice, the ballet in “D’Orr”. was shocking.

18

Walked about the town Papa bought me a pretty little watch at 435 Francs. (No 20048)

In the evening went accross in the little steamer took three minutes to cross.

19th Thursday.

Left Genf at 6.50 A.M. via Neuchatel arriving at Basel at 1 P.M. after changing trains at Lausanne. — staying at the St Gotard Hotel.  Drove about town for an hour.  could not sleep for the noise at station [sideways along left margin: Horrible hotel.]

20

Left Basel at 7.10. AM. and arrived at Neuhausen at 10.  took a walk to the waterfall, Rhinefall, & back to the station to take the 10.49 train to Schaffhausen where we arrived at 11.30. staid at Hotel Müller

Papa took the 3. P.M. train to Zürig to get our trunks & returned at 7.40. — During the time Bertha & I took a walk about town.   Papa brought me a lovely ring from Zürig: (cost 2.45 Franks.

21

Left Schaffhausen at 7.05 AM. for Romanshorn where we arrived at 10 then took the 10.45 steamer for Lindau where we arrived at 12 & took the train to München where we arrived at 5.20.

Staying at “Hotel Angleterre” (Englisher Hof) It is raining . 

22  Sunday.—

Took a walk, bought books, paper, postal cards etc.  In in the afternoon it rained.  In the evening went to the theater, “Münchener Schauspielhouse”.

Der Eindringling & Der Zerbrochene Krug were played.—

23.

In the forenoon took a walk, & in the afternoon drove all about town.—

It rained again.

24th,  25,  26

Went out every day, walking or driving to see the city & went to the exibition at Glass Palace.

27th

Left München at 6.30, arriving at Ulm after two hours, staid at the Hotel Rusisher Hof.

28th

Took a vuelta in the electrico, and went into the dom.

Left Ulm at 4.50 arriving at Stuttgard in about two hours, staid at the Hotel Royal.

29

In the morning made a vuelta in the Ringbahn, it rained.  Then went to the Picture gallery.  In the afternoon drove all about the place, through the Park to Cannstadt & New Stallt and all through the city.

30,

The first thing we heard this morning was the murder of the Italian King!!—

Did some shopping,

And left by the 5.45. train & arrived at Karlsruhe at 7.30—

Staying at Hotel Germania.

31

Drove all through town.  And left at 6 P.M. arriving at Heidleberg, at 7 P.M.

Staying at Schloss Hotel, up on the hill,—

The old castle was beautifully iluminated, & there were fireworks in town.

Aug. 1st

We went through the Old castle & down town by the cable cars.

This is a lovely place, with nice walks through the Schloss Park, (under high trees) & benches to rest, on he hill side.

Aug 2nd

It rained in the forenoon; We left by the 3.20 train for Frankfurt where we arrived at 5. P.M.

In the evening took a walk.

Staying at “Hotel Union”.—

Friday Aug 3rd

Took a drive about town in the forenoon.  In the afternoon walked about the place; & went to the Zoological garden.

Aug 4th.

Left by the 2.20 train for Mainz where we arrived at 3.50.

staid at "Reinisherhoff," Papa & I took a walk in the evening. B was not well.

Aug 5th

Went to Wiesbaden at 11 & spent the day. It was lovely.

& returned to Mainz at night

Aug 6,

[sideways along right margin: with Herr & Frau Heine]

Left Mainz at 9.30 by steamer for Rüdesheim. Where we arrived at 11.—Went to Darmstäderhof hotel. In the afternoon to the train up to the Niederwald Denkmal, & from there we walked through the woods, to the Lagd Schloss, then by train down to Asmanshausen & by small steam tug accross to Schloss Rheinstein, after going all through the old castel we crossed to Asmanshousen again, & from there by steamer to Bingen & Rüdesheim

Aug 7.

Left Rüdesheim at 9.15, and arrived at Coblenz at noon, the trip on the river was lovely, with the old castles on each side; and when we were passing the Lorelei Felsen, the passengers on bord, commenced to sing: "Ich weiß nicht was soll es bedeuten", & other Rhine songs.

Staying at Hotel Anker

In the afternoon went to Ems by train, with Heines & walked all through the place, then up to Malberg by the cable cars. In the evening we returned to Coblenz.—

8th

We went to see the statue of Kaiser Wilhelm & into the Schloss, although it was pouring rain. Then papa drove to Herr Mayer Alberti, & he came back to the hotel with papa, & invited us to drive with him in the afternoon & to have dinner at his house in the evening. So we postponed our trip to Coeln until next day. A 3 ¼ Herr Mayer came in his carriage & drove with us to Schloss Stolsenfels.

Dined at Mayers in the evening

9th

Left Coblenz at 12.50 arriving at Königswinter at 3, took the cable cars up to Drachenfels, had a lovely view all over the place from there, then took the 5 P.M. steamer to Cöln. where we arrived after 7,, "Staying at Continental".

10th

Went to the Zoological garden with Herr & Frau Heine, who have been our traveling companions for several days

11th  &  12th

Walked about the principle streets, & took the tramcars. went into the dom.

13th

Left Cöln at 9 A.M. & arrived at Paris at 6.30 P.M.—

Staying at Termenus Hotel

14

Went Shopping.

15.

Went to the Exposition

16

Went shopping.

17th

We go to the Exposition most every day.—

21st

Went to the Opera to hear Faust.—

23rd

Went to the theater to see Fregoli

25

Went to the Opera to hear the Hugenotten

26

Went to

27.

Went to Versailles, all through the Palace & the beautiful Park

29,  30,  31

Went every day shopping & to the exibition & up in the Eifelturm

 Sept 2nd

Went to the theater to see Sarah Bernhart in the Aiglon, she took the part of the Duc of Reichstadt

3rd

Went to the tienda & afterwards Bertha & I drove to the Bois de Bologna.

4th

left Paris by the 10 A.M. train to Dieppe, New Haven & London arriving in London at 7. P.M.—

5th

Went to the Crystal Palace &  had breakfast there

the large picture representing the siege of Paris is grand.

7th

Went to West Minster Abbey, & to the picture gallery

6th

went to Madame Tussauds exibition of wax figures, & later on drove through Kensington Park.

8th

Left London at 10 A.M. to Dover & Ostende, to Brussel arriving at Brussels at 7 P.M.—

staying at Hotel Britanique near the Royal Palace

9,

Went to the Museum des Beaux Artes, Wierz’s picture gallery, & the Museum of Natural History.—

& in the afternoon drove in the Park, which is lovely & large, and full of people, walking, driving, & playing.

10th

Left for Antwerpen by the 2 20 train arriving at Antwerpen at 5 P.M. Gran Hotel

took a walk before supper, bought a brooch.

11—

Bought a watchchain for E.— cuff buttons & diamond studd for Papa.

left for Cöln at 2 P.M. arriving at Cöln at 8 P.M. staying at Dom Hotel.

sent trunks to Hamburg,

12th

left Cöln at 1.35 & arrived at Cassel at 7 P.M.

Hotel Kaiserhof.—

13.—

Went up to the waterworks & the grosser Christofer, also to the Lövenburg, & through the castle at Wilhemshöhe.

left at 3.45 for Eisenach where we arrived at 6 P.M. took a walk before supper, stopping at Türringerhof

14th

Took a drive up to the Wartburg, to Annathal, Drachenslucht & Hohen-sonne, had breakfast at the Hohen sonne.

& left Eisenach at 5.50 arriving at Leibzig late in the evening.

15.

Went to see the Panorama & drove through the city,

Left at 2.30 for Berlin where we arrived at 7. P.M. — at Central hotel,

16th

Drove to Grunewald,

Missing image.

17th

Did some shopping,

18

left at 8.50 for Hanover where we arrived at 12.M.

staying at Hotel Royal, went to the Palm house Museum & Zoological garden

19th

left at 5.34. P.M: for Hamburg, where we arrived late in the evening.

[sideways on page] Left Hamburg for Bs Aires on 6th Oct [?] arrived in B.A 25 Oct

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Passenger List
Departing Hamburg, 30 Sep., 1900

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Notes on fly sheet
& inside back cover

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Journal of Expenses

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Note on the paper in which
the diary was wrapped

(Este es el “diario” de su viaje de Granny) que se lo den a Franky en caso de mi muerte, ó si el no le interesa lo dan a Silvia — Es todo relacionado con su viaje a Europa

(This is Granny’s “diary” of her trip) should I die give it to Franky, but if he’s not interested give it to Silvia – It’s all about her trip to Europe


© Peter Benitz (Benitz Family)