1960: Our First Camping Trip to Pulmarí
We were 3 families: Charlie & Rosie Livingston (+ Robert), Jack & Nenai Traill (+ Veronica), and ourselves: Malcolm & Gertie (+ George, Peter, Tony, & “Bandy” our wire-haired fox-terrier). We went for a month – mid-January to mid-February. We left “El Piquete” late in the evening after a farewell asado. It was a hot dusty 3½ day drive to Ea. “Pulmarí” (north of Aluminé, Neuquen) – well worth it!.
Malcolm took all these photos of the trip.
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Pulmari-1a
Ea. “Pulmarí” - grounds/lawns Expropriated from the Miles family
by Peron ca.1950. In 1960, the army used it to breed cavalry horses.
NOTE: Nenai’s father & Charlie’s mother were Miles; they knew Pulmarí when it was theirs.
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Pulmari-1b
Ea. “Pulmarí” - main house Meeting the captain in charge & his family.
We were welcomed warmly. Malcolm had asked permission of a general (a fellow polo-player).
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Pulmari-1c
Estancia sheds & buildings
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We camped amongst the trees on the west bank of the Rio Pulmarí, next to where it drains from Lago Pulmarí. To reach it from the estancia, we mostly followed a track of sometimes deep ruts worn into the rock by “catangos” (bullock-carts). |
Pulmari-2a
Rio Aluminé or Rio Pulmarí
Likely, near the estancia casco (per low hills)
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Pulmari-2b
Campsite Charlie - Jack (back) - Nenai - Veronica Background: our F-500
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Pulmari-2c
Campsite George- Bandy - Rosie - Tony
Background: Livingston Jeep (red) & tent
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Pulmari-3a
Campsite dining table Gertie - Rosie Back-left: Malcolm & Gertie's tent
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Pulmari-3b
Nenai casting Mouth of the Rio Pulmarí, next to campsite.
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Pulmari-3c
Nenai & rainbow Campsite
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Pulmari-4b
Exploring near Painted-Rock
George - Tony
In background, the east end of Lago Pulmarí.
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Pulmari-4c
Exploring near Painted-Rock Peter
The rock (5-10 meters high) had age-old bleached designs on its top surface.
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Pulmari-5a
Going to Quelique: Launching the boats
Left: Bandy Near left: George
Far boat, likely: Charlie - Veronica - Nenai - Rosie
Mid-boat: Peter - Robert - Tony (any order)
Near boat: Jack
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Pulmari-5b
Quelique Nelida Miles’ former summer home Abandoned but in surprisingly good repair
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Pulmari-5c
Quelique - Jack & Veronica Surrounded by fruiting raspberry bushes!
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Pulmari-6a
Loaded with loot from Quelique
Nenai - Charlie - George
Canvas folding boat & 25-years-old 2½hp Johnson,
towing another boat, or two?
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Pulmari-6b
Lago Pulmarí, returning from Quelique
West end
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Pulmari-6c
Lago Pulmarí, returning from Quelique
Rocky island was a good fishing spot.
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Pulmari-7a
Riding in Jack’s Jeep
Likely on our way to Lago Ñorquinco. Charlie in the lead.
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Pulmari-7b
Araucaria trees - & Lago Pulmarí?
Nenai’s head.
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Pulmari-7c
Araucaria trees, in the Rio Pulmarí valley?
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The captain invited us to an asado at the estancia casco (HQ). (We later reciprocated.) |
Pulmari-8a
George - Jack - Gertie - NN1 - Charlie (NN1: Likely a local friend of the captain or his wife.)
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Pulmari-8b
NN1 - Charlie - NN2 - Captain - NN3
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Pulmari-8c
Nenai - Rosey - Doctor’s wife
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Pulmari-9a
Doctor lighting cigarette 2-3 weeks later we met again at the Ochoa hostel while we waited
for truck to be repaired.
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Pulmari-9b
Don “Exactamente” – mayordomo? Captain & family
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Pulmari-9c
Don “Exactamente” & captive audience
Several of the older employees had worked for the Miles family when they owned the estancia.
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Pulmari-10a
Captain’s wife
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Pulmari-10b
Captain & Doctor
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Pulmari-10c
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Polo, Duck Hunts... |
Sport-0a
Malcolm, ca.1965 Duck hunt, Paraná river near Coronda, SFé.
(Photo by Peter Simpson of Venado Tuerto, SFé. Source: P. Benitz)
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